Divided Cusco, which is rather quiet for a Peruvian city: not too shielded from the world (must that the large European holiday season is over) and traffic is tolerable (Peruvians love to use their horn and there is any way with whistling noises or sirens, creating a good brouahaha). You will not find either of hordes ¨ Toucs Toucs ¨ as we crossed the earliest Peruvian cities where we went, kind of motorbike taxi-tricycle which can carry two people, with a protective cover often decorated with stickers of brand logos, icons and other religious slogans.
However, on the road quickly found the peak-ups with effigies of multiple political parties, covered with posters, armed with flags, sometimes with a huge papier mache mascot such as processions of carnival of loudspeakers screaming Peruvian music with Asian accents, slogans for communal elections, regional, departmental and districtales to be held in early October. Without exaggeration, since our enrtrée in Peru, we have seen over thirty different parties, painted on the walls of houses, rocks roadside ... it changes the "Evo, IF" or "Evo, No" in Bolivia. Party logos are sometimes amusing: the Tricyle, the traditional hat, the football, coca leaves, the great native muscle, patata (papa), the condor ... Just before arriving in Cusco, the peak-up party of bread (pan) stops in front of us to congratulate us and we "bribe" ... the candidate from himself and his supporters survoltées offer us bread in bags with sticker party, the photo of the candidate, and Inka Cola, La ¨ ¨ national drink soft yellow fluorescent flavored chewing gum. They tell us to shout the name of the party, telling people to vote for them ... and when their request that they defend the ideas ... facilities for tourists of course!
Since at each departure of a large city where we stayed a while, It feels good to regain the feeling of freedom on his "little" bike, find a contact with people campaigns, and to reconnect with nature, evenings around the fire under the moon and stars ...
Directorate Choquequirao, an impressive site rediscovered a century ago by the same American archaeologist who discovered the site of Machu Picchu. The road climbs up until now, about 4000m with very steep sides, the coast road where you see evolve gradually as one ascends or descends that the designs of the laces of the road range, the air is fresh and almost no vegetation grows (only a few imported Eucalyptus). And the pass, it comes down between 1000 and 2000m to go up and down 
Back to Choquequirao ... They are two brother and sister-Franco-Hispano Belgian Ijar Naya and we met in Puno, which we have spoken first. They came back. Four-day trek with a mule to carry the food and baggage with Multia. They were enchanted by the beauty and tranquility of the site due to the fact that it is not yet known and not easy access at the physical level. 
Cachora arrived at the charming little village facing the huge snowy mountain "Salcantay" and populated by happy people, we meet Cledia allowing us to leave our bikes at home for the 3-4 days Caminata (walk). So we start with our backpacks, and awayo backpacks loaded with some food, bottled water and the bare minimum to sleep and invest ...
Walking the exchange rate of travel, we enter into another relationship with time, both slower and even surprising about the distances that appear to change rapidly ... you'll quickly get the height, or conversely, it is fast approaching the river below ... and the angle of view facing the mountain changes completely!
Nature enchants us with its beauty, its diversity and its magic ... between spring making its appearance and the remnants of winter and the bright colors of fresh cactus shoots and leaves emerging mixing with shreds of moss hung from the branches, fluttering in the wind the cotton balls filled with seeds, Clavel del Aire fluorescent yellow, pink, green, red (sort of giant pineapple leaves growing on branches ).
Impressions dizzy with the sides of mountains, facing the immensity of the quebrada (fault) that opens before us, the majestic Apus (so that the Incas called the gods they worship, and whose Mountains are a part. 
The site is awesome! The small team working on the site arrives at the same time as us and answered our questions.
We learn that only 15 to 30% of the remains have been updated and restored. The ingenious system of terraces and irrigation has allowed the site is so well preserved today. There is a pipeline 16km long, which share nevado Salcantay through all the terraces.
We are witnessing a breathtaking sunset, the mystical allure of a high oval square on top of a mountain (it looks like on the roof of Olympus). It was not clear the depth of emptiness all around us because of thick fog. According to one of the agents of the site, it was the smoke from fires due to the locals, who set fire to the mountain to fertilize (we saw several very impressive on our way). The sun has become a big orange ball, then pink and bright red, melting into the fog, leaving a gradient in the pastel sky. Bird type swallows abounded swirling around the plaza, creating sounds of whipping wind projectile grazing in us.
We were alone on the site and were then discovered in the glow of the full moon of the first day of spring, and huge red rose behind the mountains, at the other end of the sky, a few minutes after the father's disappearance Inti (the sun god by the Incas) ... Magic!
return the next two days we are suffering in the thighs, calves and back ... Strongly found our horses! It all boils still love this little expedition on foot, -)
Siboulet
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